So my brother has been bugging me to make him some garb to wear over/under his armour. Basically he wants to wear it under his breast protection and over his leg belt and leg protection attachments. I went out with him the other day to go fabric shopping and he spotted this gorgeous blue linen. Unfortunately there was only 195cm of it left. I tried my best to make something simple and economical so I based it off a Japanese kosode. It’s what I’m most familar with.
1. Cut out rectangular pieces for the back, the two front flaps and the sleeves.
The width of the linen was 110cm so I just used that as the length of the garb. And it also meant that the selvedge was at the bottom and I didn’t have to hem if I didn’t want to :P. The back piece was 60cm, the two front pieces 50cm leaving about 35cm, theoretically, for the sleeves. I’m not very good at cutting fabric though so I was left with 28cm for the sleeves after I trimmed everything to be mostly straight.
2. Attach the two front pieces to the back piece like so, remembering to leave space for your neck:
These are two selvedges sewn together so no further hemming is necessary
3. Attach the two sleeve pieces, like so:
Now these two edges aren’t selvedges so I do a double wrap to keep the edges tucked nicely away. I’m feeling lazy so I’ll just link you to the very nice page with an awesome description and diagram it’s in step 3 of the tutorial. I had a warm fuzzy feeling when I found this because I already knew how to do it. My mum taught me 😛
Of course you have to keep track of which side of the fabric is inside and which is outside otherwise you end up with a big bulky seam on the outside. Like I have with one of the shoulders.
4.This is where I attach the collar and cuff. Cut strips of material about 14cm wide, iron in 1cm each long edge and then fold in half. That way I end up with nice pressed lines that I can follow when I’m sewing. Sew one edge of the open collar to one side of the the fabric, then flip, fold the collar to its proper shape and sew along the edge.
At this point I really should have done some maths to figure out the the sleeve fabric (28cm) plus the cuff (6cm) did not add up to a full arms length. I was planning to make the cuff longer to make up for being short on the blue material but I just forgot ^^;;
Of course I have to cut the collar section before sewing it on. I normally just guesstimate this bit ^^;;
The picture below shows the piece folded in half with the sleeves together at the bottom of the picture. The back piece is towards the left and the two front flaps are towards the right
5. Attach a square piece to the armpit area. This step is something I tried for the first time. Kimono normally have a large arm hole and straight sewn up for men, or a smaller arm hole and the area left unsewn for women. The square patch is more of a medieval thing I think?
6. Now sew up the sleeves and about two-thirds down the length of the garb. I’m leaving side slits to allow for greater range of motion in fighting.
7. Tidy up the edges and it’s all done!
This is how it ended up. Sorry about the face, he’s a bit shy.
In fact it ended up so pretty and the blue was just too beautiful for fighting garb, so I’ve just promised him something less loverly 😛 Just to round things off, I’m going to add black edging at the bottom to match the collar and cuffs.
In case you’re wondering why he’s wearing it right flap over left instead of the other way around….well….I accidently ran out of black for the last bit of the collar and….oops xP