Orange hanfu

This is the most recent project that I’ve almost finished:

Oh, and say hello to my happy onigiri ^^. I didn’t make him, I bought him from Supanova last weekend. I thought this might be a good time to introduce him. He makes me happy.

Anyway, about the garb, it’s only almost finished because the arms are slightly too long. I’m flipping the cuffs and hand sewing them in place. That’s going to take awhile since I hate sewing by hand.

This is actually based on about a year of on and off research from the internet and also using my cousin’s Chinese translating skills. It really sucks that I can’t read Chinese even though I was sent to Chinese school and everything ^^; So many sources for chinese garb are, for obvious reasons, in chinese. Anyway, so this pattern came from amalgamating various images that come up if you google “hanfu” as well as this very helpful website and their “for dummies” series which are thankfully in English. And also the various kung-fu series I’ve watched over the years 😛

I’m still getting my head around the various terms but I think this is called a Shenyi. Or maybe a Ruqin? Anyway, I was aiming for garb from the Han dynasty period. This was before mongolian influence so the sleeves are not fitted to the wrist.

The most common materials from that period were silk and linen. Cotton only came through to China from India after the formal establishment of the silk road and then only became really common when they figured out how to grow it. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to source silk of the right weight and price that making silk garb is practical. If anyone knows any sources with reasonable shipping to Australia please comment 🙂 I do have some linen but this light weight orange cotton has been sitting around at home for years and it was perfect to go with the patterned fabric on the collar and cuffs. Those are cotton as well; embroidery or painted fabric is a more period method of getting collar decoration but it’s just so much easier getting a pretty pattern printed on cotton. I got this orange flower pattern from the last time I took a trip to China. It helped that my cousin is into cosplay there.

The one other thing I haven’t finished is the sash. I haven’t decided what colour or pattern I want the sash to be. What colour goes with orange?

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4 Comments

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4 responses to “Orange hanfu

  1. Hey;
    Thanks for liking my blog! Allow me to explain a bit on the quju thing.
    The piece you have here is a modern (as in 21st century) “small quju” – its features being a simple lapover on the bottom hem without any wrapping around the back. There’s a similar effect with REAL Han and Pre-Han robes, but the hem flows the other way – namely, 人-shaped instead of 入-shaped. How do you do that when the lapels cross left over right? Let the right lapel drop down from the inside. Just look at any terracotta warrior for reference.

    I’m hesitant to give a tutorial on qujus on my site, because there’s much taxonomical and archaeological work to be done. Hu Jingming is finishing up, but I still want to let the dust settle a bit more before I make my move. If you’re still wondering why I don’t call qujus “Shenyi”, it’s because not everyone makes it by the Shenyi code – that is, top/skirt made separately, sewn together, and wraps deeply. Especially with shorter versions that only go about thigh length – those are by every means ruqun (top/skirt) and not shenyi. Don’t let the term “quju” fool you into assuming “quju shenyi”.

    • Thanks so much for commenting!

      I’m not quite sure I understand what you mean by the 人-shape of the bottom hem. I’ve looked at terracotta images and quju images on the net but can’t really see any hems of that shape. Do you have a picture or diagram to illustrate it?

      I have seen that most patterns for women’s hanfu include a large wrap portion that goes around the back, but I’m not comfortable enough with the pattern to make one yet >.<

      • http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10100989478289652&set=o.2204561358&type=1&relevant_count=1&ref=nf << This is what I mean. From what I know, Yayun Huazhang is the only shop that makes this.
        And here's the back: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10100989485265672&set=o.2204561358&type=1&relevant_count=1&ref=nf << The angles are way too obvious, whereas real ancient robes tend to oversize things so that they don't have to turn so many obvious corners.
        That, is what I mean by 人-shape. The computer text doesn't show it well, but it's essentially the difference of left or right on top. I'm not saying that the 入-shape (which you've made) doesn't exist though, just not in this denomination, in antiquity…

      • That…boggles my mind >.< I'm not good at thinking in 3D in the first place….but….it looks like the right side…passes through the left side…at the back….?

        Lacking access to any comprehensive images of teracotta warriors at the moment, and still trying to get some basic sewing techniques down I think I will set that detail aside for now. And from reading the comments it seems like noone has a proper pattern for it yet anyway?

        Thanks for the information. And please give further advice! I will be posting up my next project as soon as I finish editing the pictures.

        Addit: No wait…i take that back…the left passes through the right? This is going to keep me up for awhile >.<

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